Somm Blinders Original Deck |
Five wines from the original deck |
Oaked and unoaked Chardonnay |
Blind tasting |
Somm Blinders Original Deck |
Five wines from the original deck |
Oaked and unoaked Chardonnay |
Blind tasting |
Ugh! My 2021 vintage has high volatile acidity (VA). It smells of pressed sugarcane juice and nail varnish. While I have made wine with high VA in the past, they were all within the threshold to be bottled and enjoyed. But the prospect for this vintage is dim. Hopefully, the addition of sulfites (sometimes referred to as SO2) will salvage some of it.
Wait? Is sulfite the good guy now? What about VA? Let’s delve a little into the wine science.
Nail varnish by Laura Chouette on Unsplash |
What is VA?
VA is the measure of the volatile or gaseous acids in wine. The gaseous state of the acids is also the reason why VA can often be detected by smell. The aroma compounds that contribute to high VA in wine are primarily acetic acid (commonly known as vinegar) and secondarily ethyl acetate (associated with the smell of nail varnish). Oftentimes, the presence of VA is noticeable by the smell of nail varnish rather than that of vinegar.
A certain amount of VA is acceptable and sometimes desirable to add to the character of a wine. Some sweet wines, such as Amarone della Valpolicella and Sauternes, and even dry ones, like Barolo, often accumulate a high level of VA. If you see the descriptor “lifted” in tasting notes or wine reviews, that’s what it means. However, when the level of VA results in an overpowering and off-putting aroma, it becomes unpleasant and can result in wine spoilage.
Acetic acid by CA Creative on Unsplash |
VA is created by the activities of acetobacter. Acetobacter is a genus of acetic acid bacteria. It is widespread in nature and is responsible for creating vinegar, intentionally or otherwise. In winemaking, acetobacter can be found in bruised grapes, annoying fruit flies, winemaking equipment or anywhere in the cellar. Good sanitation practices, such as constant wiping down and cleaning with Star San, an acid-based sanitizer, is effective in limiting the presence of acetobacter.
SO2 versus VA
The reality is that it is nearly impossible to keep acetobacter out of the wine. The next layer of defense is to make the wine less conducive for bacterial activity. Acetobacter are aerobic organisms, which means they require oxygen to create havoc in the wine. Sulfite, an antioxidant, is often used to inhibit the microbial activity and growth. Yes, the much maligned sulfites are needed if you don’t want your wine to turn into vinegar.
Side note - How do natural wineries even make wine without adding sulfites? Maybe that is why natural wines often taste “interesting” and unpredictable!
Barrel tasting by Mauro Lima on Unsplash |
Thankfully, modern science has crafted a formula to calculate the amount of sulfites needed for wine protection based on a number of parameters - such as pH and alcohol content. This hobby winemaker is just keeping up with it.
Geek alert - As a rule of thumb, I have always targeted 50 ppm of FSO2 (parts per million of free sulfur dioxide) in the absence of a lab test. When sulfites are added to the wine, some will bind to the chemicals in the wine and some will dissipate. FSO2 refers to the remaining sulfur dioxide that is “free” or available to protect the wine.
FSO2 need by pH level (Credits: enobytes.com) |
As a hobby winemaker, I don’t perform multiple tests on my wine, unlike a commercial winery that would test throughout fermentation and aging. Instead, I tend to do a single broad spectrum test closer to bottling. Well, that did not work very well when the final test results indicated that the wine was not stable nor stabilizing.
My wine pH was >4.0, a first for me. Based on the chart above, I would have needed more than twice the regular SO2 dose to protect the wine. Even though I was dosing to achieve 50ppm FSO2, the test results showed that my FSO2 level was only at 4ppm. No wonder my wine is suffering from high VA. Recovery from high VA this late in the game is incredibly challenging. So lessons learned!
My Verdict: Rules of thumb are great until they don’t work. Learning from my own mistakes, albeit painful, sticks better. The good thing about winemaking is that if one vintage fails, you get to do it all over again the next year. You bet I’m going to do things differently, like doing focused tests on the wine and paying more attention to pH. I plan to kick VA in the butt for this next vintage. Wish me luck!
Summer! It’s time for road trips, hikes, and picnics. For such moments, you want a wine that is made for easy drinking and maybe fits into a CamelBak®. Here are my three go-to “grocery store” wines that are widely available and eager to please - a white, a pink, and a bubbly.
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region is an easy choice for the summer. Kim Crawford ensures consistency of quality for US$10-$18. Pale yellow in the glass, the Sauvignon Blanc has the distinct Marlborough perfume of green apple and fresh herbs. On the palate, it is vibrant with plenty of acidity, tropical fruit, and a tinge of grassy field. Kim Crawford pairs really well with fresh oysters and seafood. It also works with corn dogs and coleslaw.
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc |
AIX Rosé
If your favorite wine color is pink, I recommend a nice Provençal rosé. And if you’d like a label that you can remember, it doesn’t get easier than AIX. From Maison Saint Aix, AIX Rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. Salmon pink in color, the rosé is aromatic with floral and herbal notes. On the palate, it is dry, medium-bodied, and zesty with tropical fruit and briny minerality. AIX Rosé pairs well with poached lobster and roast chicken. Or enjoy it with ham sandwiches and potato salad. You can find AIX Rosé in the range of US$16-19 at major grocery stores.
Flama D’Or Brut Cava |
Pinot Gris is often thought of as the grape next door - commonplace, approachable, and pleasant. Originating from France, Pinot Gris is mostly used to make a dry white wine that is zesty with notes of stone fruit. The grape is also known as Pinot Grigio in Italy, where the style of wine made tends to be lighter and livelier with higher acidity. Either expression of the white wine makes for easy sipping in the summer but not something that wows the palate.
Grayish-pink Pinot Gris by Reinhold Möller |
It’s Not Really White
What you may not know is that Pinot Gris is not even a white grape. In fact, it is a mutation of Pinot Noir, where one of the two cell layers responsible for berry color is missing anthocyanins. It is crazy to think that both grapes are genetically identical except that the skin of Pinot Gris is grayish-pink (“gris” is gray in French) while the skin of Pinot Noir is deep dark red (“noir” is black in French).
Anthocyanins by Bruna Branco on Unsplash |
Anthocyanins are color pigments found in many blue, red, and purple fruits and vegetables. Although anthocyanins by themselves are odorless and nearly flavorless, they do interact with aroma substances during the vinification process to enhance the flavor of the completed wine. Because of its lower level of anthocyanins, Pinot Gris is seldom made into a red wine.
You Say Rosato
In recent years, I have seen more Pinot Gris being made into rosé (or rosato in Italy). That was actually how I found out that Pinot Gris is not a white grape. SMAK, a woman-owned winery in Walla Walla that makes rosés exclusively, has a summer blush that is 100% Pinot Gris. Depending on the vintage, the color ranges from light copper to pink hue. But it is always crisp, with notes of peaches and melons as well as delicious minerality. I have since tasted other pink Pinot Gris and generally prefer it to the dry white expression.
SMAK Summer Rosé |
2018 Château Pierre-Bise Savennières |
Savennières is within Anjou wine region in the Loire Valley |
Unless you have been hiding under a rock (and I don’t blame you for that), you have been bombarded with headlines about Ukraine. For over two months, the world has watched in horror as Russia invaded the country and inflicted devastation on its infrastructure and its people.
Unbeknownst to many, myself included, Ukraine has a rich wine history. That is not top of mind as Ukraine vineyards are being pummeled with Russian missiles and artillery. But it does draw a parallel to the resistance of French wine families against the Nazi regime during World War II. While today’s history is still in the making, let’s look back at the origin of wine culture in Ukraine.
Ukraine Wine Regions by WSET |
Early Winemaking
Winemaking in Ukraine dates back to the 4th century BC on the south coast of Crimea. There is evidence of wine presses and amphorae from that era. Crimea and the southern Ukraine areas that hug the Black Sea have always been considered the oldest wine regions of the country. Ancient Greeks and later Ancient Romans that settled along the area had found it to be ideal for growing grape varieties for table wine. In addition to Crimea, these would include modern day Odessa, Mykloayviv, and Kherson.
North of the Black Sea regions and on the west side of Ukraine is the Transcarpathia (or Zakarpattya). It is believed that winemaking in the area was started 2,000 years ago by the Celts and Dacians. The first documented mention of Transcarpathian grapes was found in a letter dated 1093. It was written by a Hungarian king to gift the village of Sevlyush (translated as “grape village”) to the monks.
Melitopol vineyard by Rodion Kutsaev on Unsplash |
From Russian Royalty to Russian Revolution
In the early 19th century, Crimea thrived as an agricultural area under Russian Prince Mikhail Vorontsov. He also developed vineyards and helped establish Crimea’s first school of winemaking. Upon his death, his estates were sold to the Russian Imperial family and then placed under the charge of Paris-educated Lev Golitsyn. Golitsyn was considered the father of modern winemaking in Crimea and had cultivated 600 grape varieties. Golitsyn also had great success making sparkling wine in Crimea so much so that his sparkler defeated all French entries to claim the Grand Prix de Champagne at the 1900 Paris World Fair.
1952 poster advertising Soviet champagne |
Following the Russian Revolution, wineries in Ukraine and other Soviet Union countries were subject to the changing agendas of the Kremlin leadership. During collectivized agriculture in the 1920s, quantity of wine was preferred over quality. In 1936, Stalin decided that sparkling wine should be made available to all people. This led to the introduction of Sovetskoye Shampanskoye (or Soviet champagne). Ukraine, with 250,000 hectors of vineyards, was the largest wine producer to the USSR. In the 1980s, however, a third of its vineyards were destroyed as part Mikhail Gorbachev’s anti-alcohol campaign.
Post Soviet Era
After the breakup of the Soviet Union and the independence of Ukraine in 1991, many vineyards were pulled and repurposed for other forms of agriculture. As the dust settled, the remaining Ukraine vineyards were generally categorized into four regions, three of which hug the Black Sea:
Vineyard in Crimea by Alexey Fedenkov on Unsplash |
What now?
As one knows, the modern Ukrainian wine boom was short-lived. Since February, many of the wine regions around the Black Sea were shelled. Russian troops occupied, looted, and destroyed numerous wineries. Russian missiles peppered the vineyards. The fallout from the war also impacted supply chain and wine tourisms in neighboring countries, such as Poland, Georgia, and Hungary.
The international wine community has been showing support for Ukraine in different ways. Several European wineries got organized to provide accommodation for Ukrainian refugees. Renowned British wine media, Decanter, will be cancelling entries of Russian wineries for the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards while waiving fees for Ukrainian entrants.
Quilceda Creek Winery fund raising for Ukraine |
Several fine wine auctions are being held to raise funds for emergency relief efforts and humanitarian aid for Ukrainian refugees. One private member club, Crurate, raised US$130,000 that were distributed to the Red Cross, Save the Children, UNHCR, and UNICEF.
Many wineries are also raising funds for Ukraine. Top Washington winery Quilceda Creek is donating 100% of the gross sales from the release of their first and only planned production of white wines to the José Andrés’s World Central Kitchen to feed Ukrainian refugees. Upon release on April 20, the wines were sold out in under an hour. It was estimated that over US$300,000 would be raised. I was among the several privileged winery members to secure the 2020 Quilceda Creek Horse Heaven Hills Sauvignon Blanc and 2020 Quilceda Blanc Columbia Valley White Wine.
My Verdict: In today’s world, it is hard to comprehend the atrocities that are committed against a sovereign nation. I hope that many will contribute to humanitarian aid for displaced Ukrainians. Check out your local wine shops, wineries, or communities for opportunities to help. Or you can donate to the efforts of José Andrés’s World Central Kitchen. Peace to you.
Carrie with Chef Cindy Pawlcyn |
Carrie showcasing The Walls wine |