Grapeful

The holiday season is upon us. Amidst the celebration, it is also a time of reflection. What was significant for me in 2024 was the re-entry into the post-pandemic world. I began to attend tasting events and travel again, things that I used to do prior to Covid, things that I used to take for granted. As I reflect on this past year, I want to savor and remember some of my favorite wine moments.

Hospice du Rhône

Hospice du Rhône (HdR) is a series of events typically held in Paso Robles to celebrate wine made from the Rhône grape varieties. Started in the 1990’s, the events bring together Rhône wine producers from all over the world to showcase their wines. In 2010, Blackberry Farm in Willard, Tennessee was added as a second venue with a smaller and more intimate format. This year, Walla Walla became the third venue, and that was where I attended HdR.

As part of kicking off HdR Walla Walla edition, I attended the pre-event tasting held by the Reynvaan Family Vineyards. Tasting these beautiful Walla Walla wines was a perfect way to whet the appetite for the Grand Tasting the next day. The Grand Tasting was the biggest HdR event, showcasing Rhône wines from about 130 wineries around the world. For a few hours, without getting on a plane, my palate explored wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape to Barossa Valley as well as anywhere in between. It was such a treat! While I did not get to attend the other events such as focused tastings, seminars, classes, and wine dinners, it just meant that I now have more to look forward to in the next HdR.

Walla Walla Spring Release

Following close on the heel of HdR was the Walla Walla Spring Release. Walla Walla Valley is home to over 100 wineries and tasting rooms and boasts of almost 3,000 acres of vineyards. While history was unclear on when the first wine grapes were planted prior to the Prohibition, Chris Figgins of Leonetti was credited with planting the first vines in 1974 and establishing the first commercial winery in 1977. A few years later, his buddy, Rick Small, started the second winery, Woodward Canyon. Rick was also instrumental in establishing the Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1984.

Fast forward to today, Walla Walla is now a top wine destination outside of California. Held annually on the first full weekend of May, the Walla Walla Spring Release is a great way to try the wines offered in the region. This past release, we tasted Smak rosés with talented winemaker and owner Fiona Mak. We also visited with Carrie Alexander at Atelier Freewater and tasted some amazing Holocene and WeatherEye wines made by her renowned winemaker husband, Todd. To top it all, we also ran into TV celebrity and Pursued by Bear owner Kyle MacLachlan at our favorite restaurant, Saffron. That is just another Spring Release in Walla Walla.

Tuscan Getaway

Next, I hopped on the plane to Tuscany, a land of sunshine and rolling hills. With more than 157,000 acres of vineyards, there are 11 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) and 41 Denominazione di Origine Contrallata (DOC) Tuscan wines. These represent the highest and the second highest classifications of Italian wines. The king of Tuscan wine grapes is Sangiovese, but do not confuse that with the Super Tuscan wine, which is made with a blend of French grape varieties (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah) as well as Sangiovese. 

I had the opportunity to spend a few days at a farmstay in San Gimignano, nestled in acres of vineyards and next to the family-run winery, Rubicini. The local cuisine was delectable, made with the freshest ingredients and paired perfectly with top-notch wine. Rubicini winemaker and owner Emanuela walked me through a stunning line-up of three reds and two whites, all which were DOCG or DOC classified. Despite the language barrier, we discussed winemaking philosophy and approach. Emanuela was humble and warm, with zero sales pressure. Yet I wish I could bring all her wine and her authenticity home with me.

My Verdict: As the year wraps up shortly in a few weeks, I am grateful to be able to enjoy these experiences that brought me wonder and joy. The future may yet hold uncertainty and disruptions to our daily living, and we may be required to hole up and hunker down again. Until then, I am going to appreciate whatever lifts my spirit, not take anything for granted, and be kind to others. Cheers!

Rocks by Any Other Name

I first tasted wine from the Rocks in 2014, a year before there was a Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA. It was at a tasting hosted by Esquin, with a line-up of Washington great reds, that included Christophe Baron's Cayuse wines.

Cayuse and Quilceda Creek Tasting at Esquin

While he might not be the first to grow grapes in the Milton-Freewater area, the French winemaker was the one who brought that region to international fame. When Baron first set eyes on the terroir, he saw a field of cobblestones, that reminded him of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He planted his first vineyard there in 1997 and named his winery Cayuse Vineyards, after the Native American tribe. Incidentally, the word "Cayuse" was derived from the French word for stones, cailloux.

Terroir or Wine Flaws?

Cayuse tasting room that is always closed

Baron was a controversial winemaker. While many absolutely adore his wines, he has his fair share of skeptics. Kori Voorhees of Wine Peeps wrote a compelling blog post in 2010 on whether Cayuse wine flavor profile was a reflection of a unique terroir or simply wine flaws. She even ran lab tests to prove that it was the latter.

I confess that I went into the Esquin tasting as a skeptic. Then I tasted four of his wines; Bionic Frog Syrah, Cailloux Syrah, Widowmaker Cabernet Sauvignon, and God Only Knows Grenache. It was not hard to pick up the unique flavor profile across the different varietals. What Voorhees would call pickle brine and cooked cabbage, I called kimchi. However, I found the umami in the wines oddly pleasing with a well-rounded complexity.

I was sold! (And yes, I love kimchi too.)

Rocks or Stones?

Fast forward five years from the tasting, the Rocks District was established as an AVA and continues to attract a lot of attention from both wine critics and wine collectors. The number of wineries that offer or increase wine offerings in the Rocks District AVA has also grown exponentially.

Sleight of Hand Cellars, for example, added two Syrahs from the Rocks District (Funk Vineyard's Funkadelic and Elevation Vineyard's Spider from Mars) to its popular Stoney Vine Vineyard's Psychedelic. All three single vineyard Syrahs are offered in the newly formed "For Those Who Love the Rocks" club.

Sleight of Hand Cellars' Single Vineyard Syrahs from the Rocks District

Interestingly, while others are cashing out on the Rocks District AVA branding, Baron did not jump on the bandwagon simply because he didn't like the name. (He prefers "Stones.") Truthfully, Baron didn't need to use the coveted AVA on the label. When people think of the Rocks District, people already think of Cayuse.

Regardless of the AVA listed on the label, the Rocks District produces beautiful wines. I want to share with you three from my cellar that I am super excited about.

Force Majeure's SJR, Rasa's Primus Inter Pares & Reynvaan's ITR Syrah

2016 Force Majeure's SJR Syrah is a departure from the winery's typical Red Mountain offerings. The project paid off when it received 100 points from Jeb Dunnuck of Wine Advocate. I tasted the SJR Vineyard Syrah the past spring at the Force Majeure winemaker's dinner before it was officially released. While every Force Majeure wine that night was incredible, the SJR was the most terroir-driven and interesting for me. It made such a lasting impression that I begged the winery to allocate a bottle to me.

2017 Rasa Primus Inter Pares Grenache is such a fun and fascinating wine. I tasted it during this past Spring Release in Walla Walla. Made with 100% Grenache from Monette's Vineyard, the wine is fruit-driven with cherries and berries and yet savory with the minerality that is typical of the region. International Wine Report gave it 95 points.

2016 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah In the Rocks is just stunning. In fact, Baron sold the Reynvaans the parcel of land that would become the estate In the Rocks Vineyard. A protégé of Baron, winemaker Matt Reynvaan is a star producer of Rhône-style varietals. I tasted the Syrah also during the past Spring Release in Walla Walla. It has well-balanced layers of fruit, meatiness, and umami. Jeb Dunnuck gave it 97 points.

My Verdict: I have definitely been converted from a Cayuse skeptic to a big fan of the Rocks region.  I do not disagree with Voorhees' blog post about the lab test results, and I certainly do not think that the Rocks District wines taste anything like Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I do, however, have a different perspective of what constitutes wine flaws. After all, there is no accounting for taste. I would encourage anyone to keep an open mind and try a wine from the Rocks District. I'd love to hear your thoughts!