French Wine Country, Beaune!

A last-minute change in travel plans recently landed us in Beaune, a historic French town and the wine capital of Burgundy. I was ecstatic, and Beaune didn't fail to impress. At the heart of the most celebrated wine country in the world, Beaune also has five Michelin star restaurants. It's a haven for wine geeks and foodies, and a danger to your wallet.

Allow me to tempt you to visit Beaune with a few highlights of our trip:

Hospices de Beaune

As you take a stroll in Beaune, it is hard to miss the beautiful Flemish-style architecture in the town square. That is the Hospices de Beaune, a hospital founded in the 15th century to provide free medical care to the poor. The hospital continued to be in operation in the same building till the 1970's when the services were moved to a modern facility. A tour of the Hospices de Beaune is a treat, where you get to see how it was run several hundreds years ago.

Hospices de Beaune

Hospices de Beaune wine

The Hospices de Beaune is also known by some as the winemakers' hospital. Over the centuries, the hospital has received different donations, including vineyards, to support its mission. Today, the hospital owns about 60 hectares of premium vineyards.

In 1859, a tradition of auctioning wine from the vineyards to raise money for the hospital was started. The wine auction is held on the third weekend of November (also known as the Les Trois Glorineuses). A portion of the proceeds still go for the care of the sick as well as the modernization and maintenance of the hospital today. The wine will be auctioned primarily in barrels to private and professional winemakers for maturation. Throughout Beaune, you can see bottles of Hospices de Beaune being sold under different winery labels.

Winery Visit, Maison Joseph Drouhin

Drouhin cellar

Because this was a last-minute trip, I didn't manage to arrange for a special winery visit, not to mention that our trip was smack in the middle of peak vacation time for Europeans, even winemakers. Many of the smaller wineries were closed.

Imagine my delight when I found that Maison Joseph Drouhin has a cellar and tasting tours in the town square. A long-time fan of Oregon's Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, I could hardly wait to tour the mothership and taste the Burgundian juice.

The tour started in the cellar of the Duke of Burgundy's Parliament building where we got acquainted with a wine press from 1570. It is apparently still useable although not very efficient compared to modern technology. How cool is that? Maison Drouhin uses it only to mark special vintages.

Ancient wine press from 1570

The tour takes you through an elaborate underground labyrinth. If walls could talk, the ancient cellar would have many fascinating stories to share from Roman times to World War II. In some parts of the cellar, there is evidence of Roman presence in the herringbone-style stonework on the wall. You will hear about facades in the cellar which were deliberately strewn with spider webs to hide wines from the Nazis. You will even hear about how Maurice Drouhin (who ran the Maison during the war) hid in the cellar and then at the Hospices de Beaune as he was wanted for being part of the French Resistance. He thanked the Hospices by gifting vineyards, of course!

Cellar wall with herringbone-style stonework

The tour ended with a generous flight of six wines. three white and three red:

White
2013 Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Millieu
2013 Chassagne Montrachet
2012 Puligny Montrachet Folatieres Premier Cru

Red
2009 Chorey-Les-Beaune
2008 Nuits-Saint-Georges Damodes Premier Cru
1996 Beaune Clos de Mouches Premier Cru (a very special treat indeed!!)

(I lied. The tour truly ended with a half case of Drouhin to be shipped back to Seattle.)

Tip: If you plan to ship wine back to the United States, you don't have to pay VAT, which is a hefty 20%. Use it to pay for shipping instead.

Michelin Restaurants and Cheese Chariots

As mentioned, Beaune has no lack of Michelin star restaurants. It is hardly surprising as they do pair well with the world's most celebrated wines. If you can't partake of the many gastronomic pleasures Burgundy has to offer, you have to at least try the namesake dishes, Escargots à la Bourgogne and Boeuf Bourguignon. The two versions below were from Le Cheval Noir.

Escargots à la Bourgogne

Boeuf Bourguignon

Although technically not a Michelin star restaurant, Le Cheval Noir is granted the status of Michelin Plate, which means good cooking. I have to say that the escargots from Le Cheval Noir were probably the most inventive I've ever had. The shells were so soft and lightly fried that you could eat them, like soft-shell crabs. As for the Boeuf Bourguignon, there are so many different versions out there, all delicious in their own ways, that you may be inclined to try a few.

Wines served with dinner at Le Cheval Noir - 2012 Domaine Chanson Beaune-Bastion Premier Cru and 2013 Domaine Laurent Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 

We did however get into a Michelin star restaurant, Le Carmin, on our last night in Beaune. My sea bream with tomatoes was absolutely delicious. But nothing delighted my husband more than the chariot de fromage, from which he got to choose a few ounces of different cheeses to enjoy. (I called that the cheese dim sum.)

Sea bream with tomatoes

Chariot de formage

Wine served with dinner at Le Carmin - 2008 Domaine Michel Mallard Les Renardes Corton Grand Cru

Saturday Farmers Market

For a town where good food and wine is so much of its soul, it is not surprising that Beaune farmers market is thriving and extensive. Should you be in Beaune over the weekend, you don't want to miss this.

Located in the town square and operated on Saturdays only, you can see shoppers chattering excitedly with vendors amidst bountiful produce, fresh and cured meat, cheeses, and breads. In addition to gastronomical delights, there were artisanal and commercially-produced quilts, hats, bags, umbrellas, and clothes to get you ready for French country living.

Beaune Farmers Market

My Verdict: Having visited different wine countries in the United States, Chile, Spain, and France, Beaune is currently my favorite. It has a small-town feel and is welcoming of visitors. But it is by no means a tourist trap. People go to Beaune to eat, drink, and have a good time. It will be great to brush up on some French, but there are enough people who can speak English to help you get by. If possible, research the wineries and make contact before you visit. The high-end ones are impossible to get in if you are not "in the industry." But when in doubt, Drouhin is a really good winery to visit. Santé!

Here Comes the Sun, It's All White!

My wine club loves blind tasting, no matter how terrible we are at it. We would take turn to pick a theme and host the tasting. Like pros, we would hold our glasses up to sniff, swirl, and sip. Unlike pros, we almost never spit.

White wine blind tasting panel

It was our turn to host the past tasting. Our theme was "Here Comes the Sun, It's All White"--a terrible Beatles wordplay.

Well, the sun was barely out in Seattle that fateful weekend. But like all good Seattleites, we grabbed our jackets and sat out in the patio.

We were blind tasting white wines. Everyone named the wine they brought after a famous white person whose description might fit the wine, and that is the only clue as to the appellations, grape varietals, and maybe vintages of the wines. That was harder than you might imagine even for the ones who had taken all kinds of wine classes to refine their taste buds. And as the evening went on (remember we didn't spit), our judgement became at best comedic! Did I mention that we also had a bottle of bubbly and a couple bottles of white with dinner?

If you are curious, here's the line-up of what we had that night, with a few hints as to why the names were chosen:

Aperitif

NV Scharffenberger Brut Excellence

With Dinner (Thai)

2009 Pichler-Krutzler Riesling Loibenberg

2014 Domaine de la Tour du Bon Bandol Blanc

Blind Tasting
Penelope Cruz (Spanish varietal) - 2013 Adamant Cellars Gateshead Vineyard Albariño
Lolita (too young) - 2015 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc
Amy Schumer (American, full-bodied, funky) - 2010 Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay
Grace Kelly (American, elegant) - 2013 Clos Pierre White Salmon Vineyard Chardonnay
Maria von Trapp (Austrian varietal) - 2015 W.T. Vintners Underwood Mountain Vineyard Grüner Veltliner

Experimental (for those who dared)
1975 Bolla Valpolicella

Palate Cleanser 

2003 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne

Dessert

2007 Pieropan Recioto di Soave Classico Le Colombare

Wonderful line-up

My Verdict: Blind tasting is a lot of fun and rather humbling. However, don't let that stop you from having a grand time! Cheers!

Here's the score sheet

Chablis vs. Sancerre

Seattleites do not take summer for granted. Following the gloom of winter and lingering drizzles of spring, summer days are long, warm, sun-filled with just a touch of humidity. Spring flowers transition into summer bloom with an abundance of assorted berries, stone fruit, and fresh produce. Seattleites live for the summer!

Summer is also the time when we leave the red wines in the cellar and start breaking into blush and white wines, the perfect accompaniment to a charcuterie spread enjoyed on a boat, in a park or on your deck. My niece and partner in wine, Taylor, and I are having fun picking out white wines from the cellar and tasting through them. This month, I'd like to share our experience with two delicious French whites - Chablis and Sancerre.

Pascal Bouchard Chablis vs. Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Blanc

2013 Pascal Bouchard, Chablis, Fourchaume 1er Cru
I never thought I would like Chardonnay that much till I tasted a white Burgundy. It is not weighed down by oak the way California Chardonnay tends to be. For the most part, I like my white wines crisp and fruity with a nice balance of minerality and acidity. Among the white Burgundies, Chablis delivers that for me. It is summer in a glass!

The Pascal Bouchard Chablis sourced from the Fourchaume vineyard is classified as Premier Cru (second highest classification in Burgundy, with Grand Cru being the first). The wine is fresh with a nice blend of acidity and oceanic minerality, that makes you want to pair it with some fresh oysters. It definitely works wonderfully with cheeses, cured meat, olives, and pickles.

Price: $39 (West Seattle Wine Cellars - https://westseattlewinecellars.com)

2014 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Blanc
Most people are familiar with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, especially those from the Marlborough region. However, after a magical encounter with a bottle of 2010 Domaine Etienne et Sébastian Riffault Sauletas Sancerre in New York a few weeks ago, we are going for a French Sauvignon Blanc. (Side note: The Domaine Etienne et Sébastian Riffault Sancerre was creamier, fuller in body, and less fruit forward than what I would expect from a Sancerre Blanc.)

We opened up this 2014 vintage from Domaine Vacheron, which is more typical of a Sancerre Blanc. It was medium-bodied with high acidity, delicious minerality, and green apple notes. Again, I imagine oysters and seafood by the beach with a glass of Sancerre Blanc.

Price: $35 (West Seattle Wine Cellars - https://westseattlewinecellars.com)

Taylor and I toasting to summer

My Verdict: After tasting both wines side by side, I am struck by how alike they are despite being from different grape varietals. Looking at the map of Chablis and Sancerre regions, they are really close in proximity. Additionally, they lie on the Kimmeridgian Chain, known for chalky soil with limestone and a high content of crushed shells. It is no wonder that both whites have complexity and crisp minerality that make me want to eat fresh oysters! Still the Chablis has a little bit more body and the Sancerre more acidity. Both are great for summer!

To that, we raise our glasses to you - santé!

Caymus Napa Valley Cab - In Memory of Nancy

I lost a special friend to breast cancer a couple of weeks ago. It was a long and brave fight that lasted years, but Nancy is finally resting. 

Anyone who had met Nancy would tell you that she didn't look like a cancer patient. A giveaway might be a high-fashion scarf she used to cover her chemo-induced follicular disruption. Oftentimes, she would wear a really cute blonde bob with the brightest smile and a gorgeous outfit. Her eyes were always full of life, and she would be genuinely interested in your life like she was living vicariously through a healthier body. 

Nancy loved wine, and I enjoyed having drinks with her. We traded tips on how to avoid bad wines in a restaurant or a pub and dreamed about our favorite wines. I got to learn that Nancy loved a good Napa cab. (Who doesn't?) A few years ago, she gave me a bottle of Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon for my birthday. She told me that was one of her favorite wines. It was amazing!! 

This month's post is in honor of Nancy. I managed to procure a bottle of 2013 Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, which was quite a feat in a city that is saturated with good Washington wines. With determination and a somewhat forced disregard for the price tag, I picked the last bottle off the store shelf. We planned to celebrate Nancy that night with some Caymus cab and the Swinery's boeuf bourguignon and fresh fettuccine. 

Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon

Day One

First, I'd like to give a nod to the label. So elegant and beautiful! The wine was deep purple indicating youthfulness. It was fruit forward, silky smooth, full-bodied with perfect acidity. The finish was long and had a fig undertone, that was delicious. Needless to say, it was a match made in heaven for the boeuf bourguignon and fettuccine.

Day Two*

The fruit flavors deepened, and the wine showed even more structure. It was opulent!

Day Three*

Hello, leather! My friends know how much I love leather in my wine. The fruit flavors were more concentrated in the background. A touch more jammy. Still full-bodied with a lasting finish.

My Verdict: If I could only choose one word to describe the wine, it would be "opulent." I am so glad that Nancy shared this wine with me, and I can see why it was one of her favorites. Like Nancy, the Caymus cab is elegant, complex, yet approachable. You can enjoy it with food or alone. My wish for Nancy is that in heaven, God gave her a beautiful room in His mansion right next to the wine cellar. Cheers, Nancy! 

Price: $60-$90 depending on the wine store. (You can get it cheap at Trader Joe's, but I will not recommend it. That will be a different post for a different day.)

* I use the Sharper Image vacuum wine saver to keep the wine fresh after the bottle is opened.

Kim Brady of Brady Cellars - From Technology to Oenology

Washington winemakers come in all shapes and sizes! Some come from generations of winemakers like Christophe Baron of Cayuse, some hail from Napa Valley like Todd Alexander of Force Majeuer, and then there are those who have taken a leap of faith from technology to oenology like Microsoft vet Marty Taucher of Avennia. I happen to know a few folks from this last category, and they vary in their levels of success.

The truth is that being a successful winemaker is no small feat. The Washington wine industry is highly competitive and has over 800 wineries. One of my favorite Washington wines comes from technologist-turned-oenologist Kim Brady of Brady Cellars.

Our neighbor invited us to Kim's release party a few years ago. Having tasted novice attempts by other technologist-turned-oenologist friends in the past, I was skeptical. But I was surprised and very much delighted by Kim's first commercial release. His 2010 Cab was delicious during the tasting. Over time, it has aged so nicely that I persuaded him later to sell me one of his remaining six bottles, which I still have in my cellar.

Thankfully, Kim did not turn out to be a one-hit wonder! The vintages that followed the initial commercial release continued to showcase his talents in winemaking. His line-up has expanded to include dry Provence-style Rosés, beautiful Bordeaux blends (called 'Symphony'), amazingly complex Merlot, and my latest favorite, Grenache.

Kim credits his achievements to experienced winemakers (such as Tim and Kelly Hightower of Hightower Cellars and others), who have advised and guided him even before his first commercial release. He even had a chance encounter with Mike Grgich (famed winemaker of the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that won the Paris wine tasting) and ended up helping at the Grgich Wine Estates for a day.

Last weekend was Brady's 2016 Spring Release Party, hosted at the lovely Wingle Residence in West Seattle. (The Wingles are wine club members.) Like prior parties, Tyler Palagi of Radiator Whiskey whipped out all kinds of carnivores' delights, such as charcuterie, brisket with horseradish cream, and pork belly, all of which paired wonderfully with Brady's wines. The line of tasters kept Caroline, the winemaker's wife, busy pouring. Another successful release party indeed!

Left to right: Tyler Palagi, Caroline and Kim Brady

My Verdict: While it is not easy to succeed as a winemaker in this very competitive market, I am certainly glad that this technologist has made the transition to winemaking. I don't say that to just anybody. Here's a nod and a toast, and I look forward to more vintages. Cheers!

Price: $18 (Rosé), $30-40 (Red)

http://www.bradycellars.com

2009 Obelisco Estate Merlot Reserve Estate Grown - A Wonderful Gift!

Have you ever felt intimidated about buying a bottle of wine for someone who "knows" wine?

While I am far from being a wine connoisseur, I have friends who will not buy me wine because I am picky about what I drink. (You know at a certain age, it has to be worth the calories!) I have also received wine as gifts, that proceed to become cooking wine and/or sangria. I may not drink it straight, but I sure hate wasting it.

Then there is my dear sister-in-law, who doesn't drink. She makes every attempt to know my taste and then works with the local wine shop to pick a bottle that I will like. And she has been spot on each time! Have I mentioned she doesn't drink?

On my birthday last year, she got me a bottle of the 2009 Obelisco Estate Merlot Reserve. I was thrilled! Obelisco is an excellent winery! I have tried their Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends at a different tasting and couldn't wait to try the Merlot Reserve. Estate Grown no less.

Day One
The wine has a ruby hue that seems youngish for a 2009 vintage. When first opened, it has a cherry nose with a hint of tar. The body is structured with soft but firm tannins. There is some fruit, but it does not overpower.

Day Three*
The wine is more expressive with more fruit-forwardness. Mouthfeel is also fuller and smooth with nice acidity. Reminds me of my sister-in-law and the qualities for which I strive: a good blend of femininity, character, and strength.

My Verdict: Delicious with food or alone! Advice to those who are uncertain about buying wine for your wino friends: Find out the preferences and don't be shy to ask your local wine shop for advice. It is also OK to not buy wine either. But don't just grab anything from the grocery store.

Price: $0 since it is a gift! Retails at around $60.

* I use the Sharper Image vacuum wine saver to keep the wine fresh after the bottle is opened.

2013 Kevin White Winery Syrah En Hommage for Valentine's Day

It seems like every other day, a new winery pops up in Washington state. At the encouragement of another wine lover, I got my hand on three bottles of Kevin White reds, all 2013 vintage: La Fraternité Red (a GSM blend), En Hommage (Syrah), and Reserve Red Wine (Syrah and Mourvèdre)

I've been on a Syrah kick lately and decided to open up the En Hommage despite being in the tail-end of a way-too-long cold.

Day One
The wine has a deep and youthful garnet color. The nose is rather light. Perhaps still tight. Or more likely my cold is getting in the way. Mouthfeel is full and luscious. Tannins are structured and well-integrated. Acidity is low. Finish is long with a tinge of cocoa and spice. Ummm... there is something about a good Washington Syrah and chocolate. Why am I out of chocolate?

Day Three*
The nose has opened up - some rubber, a hint of plum. Mouthfeel remains full and luscious. Tannins and acidity are more alive. Finish remains long with cocoa, spice, and some leather.

My Verdict: Great wine under $30 for Valentine's Day, whether with filet mignon or chocolate later. Decant first.

Price: $28
http://www.kevinwhitewinery.com

* I use the Sharper Image vacuum wine saver to keep the wine fresh after the bottle is opened.