Grapeful

The holiday season is upon us. Amidst the celebration, it is also a time of reflection. What was significant for me in 2024 was the re-entry into the post-pandemic world. I began to attend tasting events and travel again, things that I used to do prior to Covid, things that I used to take for granted. As I reflect on this past year, I want to savor and remember some of my favorite wine moments.

Hospice du Rhône

Hospice du Rhône (HdR) is a series of events typically held in Paso Robles to celebrate wine made from the Rhône grape varieties. Started in the 1990’s, the events bring together Rhône wine producers from all over the world to showcase their wines. In 2010, Blackberry Farm in Willard, Tennessee was added as a second venue with a smaller and more intimate format. This year, Walla Walla became the third venue, and that was where I attended HdR.

As part of kicking off HdR Walla Walla edition, I attended the pre-event tasting held by the Reynvaan Family Vineyards. Tasting these beautiful Walla Walla wines was a perfect way to whet the appetite for the Grand Tasting the next day. The Grand Tasting was the biggest HdR event, showcasing Rhône wines from about 130 wineries around the world. For a few hours, without getting on a plane, my palate explored wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape to Barossa Valley as well as anywhere in between. It was such a treat! While I did not get to attend the other events such as focused tastings, seminars, classes, and wine dinners, it just meant that I now have more to look forward to in the next HdR.

Walla Walla Spring Release

Following close on the heel of HdR was the Walla Walla Spring Release. Walla Walla Valley is home to over 100 wineries and tasting rooms and boasts of almost 3,000 acres of vineyards. While history was unclear on when the first wine grapes were planted prior to the Prohibition, Chris Figgins of Leonetti was credited with planting the first vines in 1974 and establishing the first commercial winery in 1977. A few years later, his buddy, Rick Small, started the second winery, Woodward Canyon. Rick was also instrumental in establishing the Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1984.

Fast forward to today, Walla Walla is now a top wine destination outside of California. Held annually on the first full weekend of May, the Walla Walla Spring Release is a great way to try the wines offered in the region. This past release, we tasted Smak rosés with talented winemaker and owner Fiona Mak. We also visited with Carrie Alexander at Atelier Freewater and tasted some amazing Holocene and WeatherEye wines made by her renowned winemaker husband, Todd. To top it all, we also ran into TV celebrity and Pursued by Bear owner Kyle MacLachlan at our favorite restaurant, Saffron. That is just another Spring Release in Walla Walla.

Tuscan Getaway

Next, I hopped on the plane to Tuscany, a land of sunshine and rolling hills. With more than 157,000 acres of vineyards, there are 11 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) and 41 Denominazione di Origine Contrallata (DOC) Tuscan wines. These represent the highest and the second highest classifications of Italian wines. The king of Tuscan wine grapes is Sangiovese, but do not confuse that with the Super Tuscan wine, which is made with a blend of French grape varieties (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah) as well as Sangiovese. 

I had the opportunity to spend a few days at a farmstay in San Gimignano, nestled in acres of vineyards and next to the family-run winery, Rubicini. The local cuisine was delectable, made with the freshest ingredients and paired perfectly with top-notch wine. Rubicini winemaker and owner Emanuela walked me through a stunning line-up of three reds and two whites, all which were DOCG or DOC classified. Despite the language barrier, we discussed winemaking philosophy and approach. Emanuela was humble and warm, with zero sales pressure. Yet I wish I could bring all her wine and her authenticity home with me.

My Verdict: As the year wraps up shortly in a few weeks, I am grateful to be able to enjoy these experiences that brought me wonder and joy. The future may yet hold uncertainty and disruptions to our daily living, and we may be required to hole up and hunker down again. Until then, I am going to appreciate whatever lifts my spirit, not take anything for granted, and be kind to others. Cheers!

My Tuscan Getaway

Late May in Tuscany was a gorgeous time of year. Warm sun and blue sky hovered over endless green meadows dotted with cypress trees and interspersed with vineyards and olive groves. With the help of the nice Google lady, our scenic drive ended at A Casa di Dona, the agriturismo or farm stay outside the town of San Gimignano. 

Our farm stay, A Casa Di Dona

The Farmstay

We found the farmstay on agriturismo.it, a sort of low-tech no-frills Airbnb that features farm stays from all over Italy. You will not be asked for your credit card information. Nor will you receive a booking confirmation number. You simply arrange your accommodation with the farm stay owner through email facilitated by the website. Voila! A gentleman’s (or in our case, a lady’s) arrangement is made.

View from my balcony

Donatello Rubicini is the proprietress of the namesake farm stay, which translates to At Dona’s House in English. The bubbly hostess was all smiles as she grabbed a heavy piece of luggage with ease and showed us to our rooms. Each of the five rooms in the farm house has an en-suite bathroom and a balcony that overlooks more vineyards and olive groves. Our room costs 90 Euros a night and includes breakfast!

The Food

The one thing that drew us to A Casa di Dona is the many reviews about her culinary skills. Trained in Italian Chef Academy in Empoli, Dona also runs a reservation-only restaurant from the farm house. And boy! Were we in for a treat! For 25 Euros per person, Dona served up seven courses of mind-blowing Tuscan dishes made from scratch with local ingredients. This includes produce from her garden.

Starting top left (clockwise) Freshly baked Tuscan foccacia, onion fritters, foraged mushrooms sautéed in olive oil, grilled beef and chicken over arugula with olive oil, handmade pasta with pesto, herbed riso with beet and hard boiled egg

Dona serving vin santo and cantucci for dessert to her happy diners 

It suffices to say that we stayed in for dinner the second night as well. What was also included in the meal was the perfect wine pairing - a red and a white. Despite being from nondescript bottles with no labels, the wines were exceptional. We found out later that they were made by her cousins who live next door. 

The Wine

Monaldo and Emanuela run Rubicini Winery that is next to the farm house. At our request, Dona arranged a wine tasting for us with Emanuela. The tasting room was modest and simply decorated with framed accolades from Decanter and newspaper clippings, including one from Taiwan! 

Emanuela Rubicini and I at the winery 

Emanuela then walked us through a generous lineup of two whites and three reds. To my delight, they were all DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) and DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wines, which are the top two tiers of Italian wine classification respectively. That explains the high quality of wine we had with dinner the prior night. 

Rubicini wine tasting

2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (8.80 Euros) - Made with 100% Vernaccia grapes, this was the white wine we had with dinner at A Casa di Dona. Vernaccia is a white grape that is often associated with San Gimignano. Harvested ripe, the grapes were gently crushed using pneumatic press to lightly extract the flavor from the berries. The juice was then fermented in temperature-controlled steel vats. Straw yellow in color, the wine was aromatic on the nose and crisp citrus-y on the palate with lively acidity. It was a crowd pleaser.

2021 Etherea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (12 Euros) - The Etherea is a step up from the Vernaccia. After gentle crushing, Vernaccia grapes were co-fermented with a small percentage of Chardonnay in oak. It was similarly straw yellow in color with added almond and vanilla notes on the aroma from the oak. On the palate, it was more rounded in texture while balanced with acidity.

2022 Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG (8.80 Euros) - This was the red wine served with dinner, and it was fantastic! Made with Sangiovese (minimum 75% by Chianti DOCG rule), Colorino, and Celiegiolo, pump down was used during primary fermentation (instead of punch down) to ensure gentle extraction of color and flavor. After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine was left to age in steel and had no oak contact. Ruby red in color, the wine was aromatic, fruit-forward with a good balance of tannins and acidity. 

2017 Pepenero San Gimignano Rosso DOC (17 Euros) - The only wine in the lineup that came in a a Burgundy style bottle, the Pepenero was also the only DOC. According to the San Gimignano Rosso DOC regulations, it must include at least 70% Sangiovese. Pepenero had a small percentage of Merlot. Both grapes were vinified separately, blended together, and aged in oak for eight months. Punch down took place during primary fermentation for more extraction of color and flavor. A darker wine, Pepenero expressed a fruit-forward aroma with vanilla and spice undertones from the oak. It was delicious with soft and smooth tannins.

2019 Tripudio Rosso Riserva Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG (15.50 Euros) - Tripudio was vinified in the same way and with the same grapes as the Chianti Colli Senesi. The difference was the additional 12-month maturation in French oak barriques after malolactic fermentation. Fruit-forward on the nose with berries and cherries, there were also notes of vanilla and spice from the oak. The fruit profile extended to the palate and was balanced with plenty of tannins, structure, and acidity. The finish was long and lingering. 

Me in Rubicini vineyard

My Verdict: This trip to the Tuscany wine country has been magical. Its simplicity and celebration of life was transformative for me. And it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg to enjoy a rustic Tuscan vacation. Hope this post gives you a flavor of what you can look forward to. I highly recommend a visit!

Cinque Terre - 5 Lands, 2 DOC’s

Cinque Terre, which means Five Lands in Italian, comprises five coastal villages: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso along the Ligurian Sea. A visit to this picturesque part of northwest Italy has been one of the few items on my bucket list. We were fortunate to spend three days in mid May exploring all five villages, enjoying the rich history and laidback culture, and savoring wonderful local cuisine and wine.

View of Riomaggiore from the water taxi

Speaking of local wine, Cinque Terra boasts of two DOC’s (Denominazioni di Origine Controllata) - a dry white and a sweet white. But first, let’s revisit the Italian wine classification for context. There are four tiers in the Italian wine classification:

Chart from Italianwine.guide

• DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Contrallata e Garantita) is the highest classification for Italian wine. A DOCG wine is governed by viticultural zone with strict rules around permitted grape varieties, yield limits, grape ripeness during harvest, winemaking and maturation processes. There are 77 DOCG’s.
• DOC is the next and also the most common tier of Italian wine classification. It covers almost every traditional wine style. A DOC wine is also governed by viticultural zone, permitted grape varieties, and wine style. There are about 330 DOC’s. Consistently high-quality DOC’s can get promoted to DOCG’s.
• IGT (Indicazione Grafica Tipica) is the next tier and the latest addition to the original three-tier classification. It focuses on the region of origin rather than grape varieties or wine styles. There are about 120 IGT’s.
• VdT (Vino da Tavola), otherwise known as table wine, is the most basic classification. You can still find high-quality Italian table wine. They are just not restricted by the rules of DOCG, DOC, or IGT.

Me enjoying a Cinque Terre DOC by the Ligurian Sea

Cinque Terra DOC

Recognized in 1973, the Cinque Terre DOC is a small white wine region in Liguria. The wine is made with at least 40% of Bosco and may contain up to 40% of Albarola and/or Vermentino and up to 20% of other approved white grape varieties. The wine is typically straw yellow in color, aromatic, lively and yet delicate in palate. With a lower alcohol content that runs around 11 to 12.5%, it is perfect when enjoyed with seafood or cheeses. You can find a bottle of Cinque Terra DOC at 15 Euros a bottle.

Seafood appetizer platter

Sciacchetrà DOC

The second DOC is Sciacchetrà, which is a dessert wine made in the passito style. It shares the same grape varieties restriction as Cinque Terre DOC. In the making of a Sciacchetrà DOC, the highest-quality grapes are selected for harvest and dried often using straw mats. (Passito wine is also sometimes called straw wine.) When the sugar content in the dehydrated raisined grapes reaches the equivalent of 17% potential alcohol, then the grapes are vinified. The entire process has to be done in the DOC designated area.

View of vineyards on terraces from Corniglia to Vernazza

Because of the higher concentration of grapes to juice ratio in Sciacchetrà, the color of the wine is deeper and often ranges from golden yellow to amber. Like all passito wine, the aroma is intense with honey and raisin. On the palate, it is sweet, lively with a good structure and body. Its viscosity coats the mouth and lingers with a long nutty finish. Because of both the quantity and quality of grapes used to make a Sciacchetrà as well as the labor-intensive process involved, the DOC can run around 50 to 90 Euros for a half bottle.

My Verdict: Cinque Terre is not only a check on my bucket list, but its breathtaking beauty also nourishes my soul. Imagine my delight when I found not one but two DOC’s in the region that further elevate the local cuisine. If you are traveling to Italy, I hope Cinque Terre is in your itinerary and its DOC’s are part of your meal. Salut!