The Peeno Noir You Never Knew

You may have heard of Peeno Noir. It’s a little ditty by Tituss Andromedon about a wine that rhymes with mid-sized car and Roseanne Barr. Apart from its “poetic” quality, Pinot noir is one of the most fascinating grape varieties. Here are three fun facts.

Pinot by Tituss

1. It’s Ancient

Pinot is among the oldest grape varieties. Cultivated in Burgundy since the 1st century AD, Pinot noir is possibly just one or two generations away from its wild Vitis vinifera sylvestri ancestor. That makes it almost 2,000 years old! 

Pinot (red arrow) in the Genealogy of Wine by Pop Chart Lab

If you look at Pop Chart’s genealogy of wine, you will see that Pinot is among the early ancestors of today’s wine grape varieties. In fact, Pinot is the grandparent of Sauvignon Blanc and the great grandparent of Cabernet Sauvignon. While only three generations apart, it is estimated that Pinot is about 1,600 years older than Cabernet Sauvignon. Other famous descendants of Pinot include Syrah, Carménère, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Viognier.

2. It’s Colorful

The other thing you will notice in the genealogy chart is that the Pinot grape listed is of an undetermined color variant. That is because three Pinot grapes previously thought to be different varieties have been confirmed by DNA testing to be the same grape with different color mutations - Pinot noir (black), Pinot gris (grey), and Pinot blanc (white). 

While many believe that Pinot gris and blanc are mutations of Pinot noir, that theory has recently been challenged. Mutations appear to be bi-directional. One can find black, grey, or white berries growing from a single Pinot vine. In this specific scenario of color mutation, the DNA chains may have or miss the sequence that gives the berry its pigmented skin.

Pinot noir by Cjp24 in Wikimedia

Pinot gris by Reinhold Möller

Pinot blanc by Themightyquill in Wikimedia

Mutations are not to be confused with clones. A grape variety is mutated when some genetic characteristics are no longer identical to the parent vine. Clones, on the other hand, share the same genetic makeup of a grape variety but manifest different qualities, such as providing a higher yield and possessing better disease tolerance. 

Clones are often identified by one to four-digit numbers. Pinot noir is famous for having the most clones of any grape varieties. There are about 800 to 1,000 Pinot noir clones. Many have names like Dijon and Pommard followed by numbers, such as Dijon 777 and Pommard 5. Pinot gris and Pinot blanc each has about 200 clones.

3. It’s Demanding

Pinot noir is notoriously challenging to cultivate and vinify. Its tightly packed clusters and thin skin make it prone to mold, fungus, and pests. Pinot noir vines are also among the earliest to bud break and have to contend with spring frost to ensure sufficient fruit set and subsequent yield. The best Pinot noir can only be grown in cool climate areas such as Burgundy in France and Willamette Valley in the United States where it is able to fully develop its flavor.

Miles explained why he loved Pinot in Sideways

For all the difficulties, a good Pinot noir is prized for its complex flavors and ability to express terroir. Pinot noir is sensitive to distinct soil types, elevations, and exposure to the elements. A young Pinot noir is subtle and fruit-forward with red and dark fruit. With some age, flavors such as earthiness, truffles, and cocoa begin to layer in. In the 2004 movie Sideways, Miles Raymond summed these up as the reasons why he loved Pinot noir.

According to luxury auction house Sotheby, the most expensive wine in the world is the famed 1945 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grand Cru priced at $558,000 a bottle. Whether you are a Pinot noir fan like Miles Raymond or you are more like Tituss Andromedon, you now know a little bit more about the grape and the wine. So be sure to pay attention to the haunting, brilliant, thrilling, subtle, ancient flavors as you enjoy your glass of Pinot noir in your boudoir or leather bar - oh so close and yet so far.